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Happy Pet Spa

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Dog Grooming

Pamper your dog with a spa day!





Happy Pet Spa's passionate, certified team of groomers, with over 60 years of combined experience in the grooming salon, will keep your dogs looking and feeling great!


Our groomers are skilled, gentle and compassionate and will always make recommendations for the best care for your pet. They are happy to work with you to find a haircut and schedule that fits your dog's unique personality and your lifestyle. We are always available to educate owners about best practices in grooming.


We groom all ages, breeds and sizes of dogs. We use only premium pet products such as Groomers Edge, Kelco, South Bark Blueberry Facial, M.E.D Ear Treatment. We also accept vet prescribed or client preferred products when requested.


We offer full grooms (breed clips, pet clips under 1/2", pet clips over 1/2", de-shedding brush outs), bath and tidy's, creative grooming & colour and A La Carte services.

 

A La Carte Services are available by appointment Monday-Friday mornings before 11am.

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Appointments are available Monday through Friday. We are a daycare facility as well, so we do intake in the mornings, then prioritize the grooms for the day based on age, health, and behavioral needs. We will call you when your dog's groom is complete, and pickup is expected before 5:30pm. Express service is available for an extra $10.


Grooming prices vary depending on type of service, breed, size, coat condition, temperament etc.


*Matting and behavioral fees may apply and can't be accurately quoted over the phone.*


To book an appointment, please call External link opens in new tab or window780-449-4779, or click on the link to External link opens in new tab or windowbook an appointment online 24/7.



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Puppies

A puppy's first visit is an introduction to being handled by a groomer; to the looks, sounds and smells of the salon itself, and the tools (eg brushes and clippers) that a groomer uses.  It is a critical part of their training & socialization and should happen around 3 months of age. Grooming should be a regular part of their care throughout their life, and in this first year it is so important to maintain a regular schedule of visits to acclimate them to the grooming process and set them up for success with grooming for life. Some dogs may need to visit their groomer every 6-8 weeks, therefore a good foundation of trust which is built upon each successive positive grooming experience, is very important.


A Puppy's First Bath & Tidy


Your puppy will be bathed, blow dried, brushed, nails trimmed and and ears cleaned. Then, if they are a breed that will need regular haircuts, we will trim around their feet and pads, sanitary areas, and most importantly, their eyes!

Most young puppies have a soft, easy to care for coat.  It is very rare for them to mat at this age, so a puppy bath & tidy will ensure that their first experience with professional grooming is a positive one and doesn't demand too much of them.  An older puppy that comes in with a matted coat will have a more complicated experience, which is not an ideal introduction to grooming and can be stressful or painful because mats tug and pull even when you're being as gentle as you can be.


Matting is defined by groomers as any coat condition where you are unable to run a wide tooth comb through the fur from root to tip without the comb getting stuck. Longer length clipper blades won't go through matted fur, so matted dogs can end up being shaved very short to get the fur off. Matting is 100% preventable with regular proper brushing at home.


The first visit to a grooming salon can be very overwhelming for a puppy, but it doesn’t have to be! When you both arrive for the first time, have your puppy on a leash and try to be calm and positive; your dog will pick up on your mood. When your consultation is complete, you can pass the leash over and let us get to know each other.


There are also things you can do at home that will make grooming enjoyable for everyone, including your groomer! Here are some tips that will help prepare your puppy for their first visit.


Handle their paws, ears and face daily: Gently lift and hold each paw, and gradually increase the time doing so. Groomers hold paws and legs when trimming fur, pads, or nails, and a dog that tries to pull its leg back can result in strain, injuries and stress depending on how reactive they are to this type of handling.


You can play with the hair between their toes and pads and tap their toenails (make it positive with lots of praise and cookies!).  Flip their ears and touch around the ear canal (although don't put anything inside unless they are being medicated by a vet).  Practice holding their chin hair gently, as this is a common hold for groomers while face trimming.  Play with the hair between their eyes and wipe the corners with a damp cloth as necessary (daily for teary dogs).


Daily brushing in short sessions: Gentle brushing from head to toe can be as quick as a 2-5 minutes to start. At this age, you are just getting them used to the sensation so don't worry about getting every body part every session.  You can even do multiple sessions in a day (mealtimes are good because you can use a portion of their meal as rewards).  As they become more comfortable, you can increase session length and get the trickier spots.  Don't forget your comb as well!


Proper Tools: Ask your groomer about which tools they recommend. Don't use grooming tools that are highly abrasive to the skin. You can test the tool on your inner forearm - if it hurts you or is uncomfortable, don't use it on your dog. The reverse is also true, a soft brush may not be enough to keep up with your dog's dense, long or fluffy coat and may just result in surface brushing which looks like the dog is brushed but the hair underneath is actually matted to the skin. Use a wide-tooth metal comb to test for tangled/matted fur.


Mimic the sound and feel of a clipper: You can use the handle end of an electric toothbrush to touch their body, or just something roughly clipper sized (small cardboard box with something rattling inside, phone playing clipper sounds, etc).  The idea is something other than your hands or a brush can touch them and they will be perfectly fine!


Optional

Kennel training: Kennel training has many advantages, including having a space to feel safe in if they prefer.  They will be more comfortable with it in professional settings such as a vet or groomer if they've already been trained to accept it at home. Happy Pet Spa does not use kennels, but this type of training may come in handy and add to your puppies comfort when faced with a situation where a kennel is to be used.


Keep it a positive experience: Your puppy has a whole life of grooming ahead of them, so keep it fun!  If at any point they seem uncomfortable, you may have done too much too fast.  Baby steps with lots of rewards are what we're aiming for.  Use lots of tiny treats (even kibble if they're food motivated) and shower them with praise.  Don’t forget to offer their favourite toy when you’re done!


A Puppy's First Haircut


Around 4 to 6 months of age, your puppy will need their first full haircut.  All puppies will go through a coat change around this time, switching from their soft, easy to care for puppy coat to that of a thicker, plush, and higher maintenance adult coat. You can see the difference when you separate the fur and compare the colour and texture of the fur closest to their skin vs the ends.  The change varies with breed and coat type, so it’s important to talk with your groomer to discuss recommendations that are best suited to you and your puppy’s lifestyle. While some owners prefer the ease and budget friendly expense of a shorter haircut, others want a long scissor clip that requires more maintenance at home, more frequent visits to the salon and more expense. Your pup should have already had an introductory visit, and their first groom will involve more handling and grooming tools. To help make their day a bit easier, try some of these suggestions prior to their visit:


Brush them on a low table:  Some pups are easier to manage when they have a smaller area to move around on. Brushing or handling them on an elevated surface mimics the grooming experience at the salon. They are often better behaved on a table as there are less distractions.


Practice handling the "hard to reach" areas: Brushing their back is relatively easy, but there is a whole lot more dog that will get clippered!  Try gently holding their elbow to brush their front legs, and just above their knee to brush their back legs. For an ear, hold it between your fingers and thumb, brushing to the end of the ear leather. Pay special attention to areas where there is longer hair, like ears and tails, and high friction areas: behind the ears, between toes or where their collar or harness sits (neck, between their front legs and behind their elbows).  These are the areas most prone to matting!


Anti-static conditioning spray: These can be purchased from a groomer supply store, or you can make some at home.  In a small spray bottle filled with water, add a few drops of hair conditioner and shake. You can use this spritz to add elasticity to the coat and prevent breakage. It also works when tackling some tangles. A little goes a long way!


Realistic expectations: Set you, your puppy and your groomer up for success by having realistic expectations for your puppy's first full groom.  Hopefully, this will be the beginning of a long working relationship!  We want you to like the style, but we also want your dog to enjoy the process.  Puppies are wiggly creatures; we would rather have them happy and safe than have an absolutely perfect first full do.  They will grow into the process and their grooms can be more exact.


A note on older puppies coming for their first or second grooms: A young dog who is coming for their first visit at 7+ months of age is not going to have the same experience as a dog who has been practicing since they were little.  This is especially true if they did not come for introductory visits; critical socialization has been skipped.  The longer they go without getting professionally groomed, the more likely they are to get matted (especially with a coat change).


A dog that is matted and also inexperienced with grooming is not a good combination.  It is simply not fair to try and demat them when the whole process is new to them.  Not to mention, it could be painful and dangerous.  If we make the recommendation to take them short, it is in their best interest.  We can absolutely work with a dog who is inexperienced, but it is unlikely they will be mentally or physically ready for a scissored/longer cut.  With time, we can grow and train into that.


In the end, we want puppies and all dogs to enjoy the process of being groomed.  After all, it is a huge part of keeping them healthy and will happen throughout their whole lives.  Why not set them up for success!


Senior Dogs


Senior dogs may require more time for their grooms as they may tire more easily than a younger dog. Sometimes, we may recommend that their grooming session be broken up into multiple visits over a couple of days to minimize stress and the physical demands of grooming, especially if they have a hard time standing, or have a lot of coat to get through.


Preparing for Grooming


Our grooming team strives to give you the style and length you like. However, when picking a length you want, there are many factors to consider.  It's important to have realistic expectations for what can be done for you and your dog.  Dogs that get clipped can be done in a large variety of lengths, ranging from super short to an inch or more.


Lifestyle:


Is your dog a party animal at daycare?  Do they like to swim?  Do they dislike brushing?  Are they running through forests and tall grasses often?  Do they often wear harnesses, collars and clothing?  If the answer is yes, a shorter cut is more likely more suited to their lifestyle.

Is your dog the type that wouldn't dream of dipping their toes in a lake?  Do they prefer to sniff instead of play with other dogs?  Do they adore brushing?  Do you enjoy brushing them just as much?  This dog might be more suited to a longer, scissor cut.


Specifics:


Is there something in particular you like or dislike in a haircut for your dog?  Things like long or short ears and tail, short chins, big beards, long eyelashes, round or clean face, longer legs, etc.  We'd love to customize their cut for optimal personality.  Just let us know when you drop them off!  If you are very particular about instructions for your dog's haircut, please ensure that you are the one dropping them off for their appointment. We take our instructions from the person standing in front of us at drop off.


Photos:


Photos are great!  It can help us know what you like and what we are working towards.  The following are very important when bringing a photo to your groomer:


Breed: ensure that the dog pictured, if not your dog, is the same breed and has the same coat type (ie. wavy, wirey, curly).Even within the same breed, there is variation. For example, a Golden Retriever with a very thick, heavy undercoat will not have the same finished look as a Golden Retriever who is sparsely coated with very little feathering. Also, some coat types lend itself to a particular style while others do not. Eg a round Bichon Frise head can't be done on a Shih Tzu; the hair just isn't the same.


Age: ensure that the dog pictured is around the same age as your dog (puppy, adult, senior).Puppy coats are very different from adult coats, and some senior coats will change as well. While we can work some miracles, we can’t make your dog look 10 weeks old again!


Style: consider the current condition of your dog's fur. We cannot scissor a matted poodle to look like a show dog. However, if you wanted to have that as your goal, we could start with a clean slate, get on a schedule and work towards it over time.


Behaviour/Things we should know:


Is your dog not a fan of their feet being handled?  Is their mouth sore as they await their dental appointment? Do they have a history of skin sensitivities?  Allergies?  Have they been asked to leave a previous groomer before?  Why? Are they relatively inexperienced with professional grooming?


These are the kinds of things we need to know in advance of handling your dog.  It gives us an idea of where they're at and how we can best help them.  It keeps your dog and your groomer safe!  You will not be turned away for being honest.


Age:

Puppies and senior dogs may be less tolerant of more complicated haircuts (ie. breed clips, scissor cuts, etc).  This is very much an individual, case by case basis.  We will assess your dog's comfort level as we go but know that if we decide to go with a simpler or quicker process, it is in your dog's best interest.


Condition, Home Maintenance and Schedule:


Is your dog mat free, perhaps with occasional tangles here and there? Are you willing to book appointments in advance on a regular schedule?  Learn how to maintain your dog's coat at home (and follow through)?  Congratulations!  You have likely have many style possibilities!


Are you seeking infrequent grooming appointments?  Do you often forget to book until your dog is in dire need of a trim (we get it, life happens!).  Does your dog rarely see a brush unless the kids decide to pick it up once in a while?  You're probably looking at a short trim.


The condition, texture and length of your dogs coat is the biggest factor in determining what style they get. Ultimately, we groom the dog that's in front of us.  You may brush them every day, but if it isn't being done properly or thoroughly they can still be matted.  We would be happy to give you pointers, and always want to work with you to achieve a look you like.  All we ask is that you also work with us.  After all, we have a common goal: the health and happiness of your dog!


Grooming


Here's some common phrases we hear as groomers, and how we interpret them.  We also included phrases that we use, and what you can expect as far as haircuts go.


"Teddy Bear Cut": Unfortunately, there is no breed standard for Teddy Bears.  This phrase is very much open to interpretation.  For us, it generally means the same length all over the body (usually longer and scissored if possible), and a cute round face.  The length of the body can vary depending on many factors.  If you have a particular "Teddy Bear" Cut in mind, we would prefer to hear specifics on what you're after, or perhaps a photo.


Pony Tail / Topknot: In theory, pony tails on dogs means growing out all the hair above their eyes and ears until it is long enough to fit into a ponytail.  This can be a multi groom process that requires some home maintenance to keep it looking nice between grooms (and as it grows out).  If you just want a bit of hair in a pony, you're likely looking for a bow in their hair after their groom.  However, we would be happy to discuss what you'd like for their final look, and will do our best to achieve it.

Breed Clip: Many breeds have a standard cut, and some have multiple (we're looking at you, poodles).  They are often modified so they are practical for pet trims, but still retain the integrity of the breed.  For example, Westies may have shorter skirts and legs.  Poodles may still have their topknot, but not super long.  We can also modify it to your liking, like a Schnauzer face but with a short body.  Again, we are always happy to discuss possibilities that suit your dog.


"Short but not shaved": This is surprisingly common.  Generally, we will clip your dog 2 lengths longer than the shortest blade we use.  This is short, but not the shortest we can go.


"To the wood": Buzz cut.  We will use the shortest blade we use all over (including their face, ears and tail unless otherwise specified).


"Standard cut": Generally this applies to dogs like Shih Tzus, Lhasas, Bichons, Poodles and any mix of similar types that don't get breed trims.  Their body is done in one length, their ears and tails are trimmed, and their face is rounded and tidied.  Length can vary depending on preference and condition.  "Standard" in this case does not refer to breed, just the fact that this is the most popular cut we do.


"Short": Can refer to any part of a dog (length of fur on body, ears, tail, face, etc).  When referring to the body fur length, short means they are shaved in one of the lengths available.  If you mean something else, try to rephrase.  eg. half off, leave ___ all over, shorter than last time, same length as ____.


"Long": Generally refers to body lengths of around 1/2" or longer.  Can also refer to specific parts eg. long ears.  Longer body clips are generally done with a comb attachment, then hand scissored all over.  They require a coat to be in good condition and a cooperative participant, and will take longer than short clips due to more prep, drying and finishing time.



Beard: Generally we refer to the dogs muzzle and chin fur, collectively, as the beard.  For example, if you ask for a short beard, all the hair around the mouth will be taken short.  If you are referring to the hair on the muzzle and the hair on the chin separately, make sure to specify that!  Eg. Very short chin, tidy muzzle.  Or short muzzle, long chin hair.  This isn't very common but it is usually possible.


Clean Face:  Think poodle faces, super short on the whole face.  Can be a great option for dogs with excessive eye discharge, who are messy eaters or drinkers or who get smelly beards.  Some people just like the look!


"Puppy Cut": Can be similar to Teddy Bear Cut, as in open to interpretation.  If you have more specifics, we would love to hear it.  If your dog is an actual puppy, this will likely be their first haircut.  If the coat allows, they will have a trim to get the bulk of dead ends off, but still leave a fair bit of length.  Often, a puppy cut isn't perfect because it is their first time.  They will wiggle and investigate and we want them to have a positive experience.


"Make them look cute": This is a great option for someone who doesn't have any preferences for what their dog looks like.  You are trusting the groomers to put them in a style that is practical, but compliments their shape and coat type.


Bath and Tidy (for dogs that get clippered):  They get a bath, and their feet, face and sanitary areas are cleaned up.  This is meant to compliment their grooming schedule, not replace full grooms.  It helps to maintain a mat free coat.  A bath and tidy is not for dematting.  An ideal schedule for many dogs is to alternate full grooms and bath and tidies, with slightly less time between bath and tidies and grooms than there would be between full grooms and bath and tidies (because the fur is shorter after a full groom).


Bath and Tidy (for double coated dogs): Golden Retrievers, Samoyeds, Malamutes, Australian Shepherds, etc.  Dogs that do not/should not get shaved get a bath and tidy as their full groom.  They get a bath, deshed and comb out, then the fur on their feet, legs, bellies, bums, chests, ears and tails are trimmed up.  Can be "natural" (very little is taken off, aside from paws), regular (all areas are tidied but subtly) or short (all feathering taken as short as possible without cutting into undercoat).  If you have preferences, let us know!  Common ones are short bum, leave the ears, short around the ears, leave the belly, etc.


Double Coated Dogs: Dogs that have fur that will grow to a certain length then fall out.  They have very obvious undercoat and guard hairs, and are generally not shaved unless there is a medical reason.  We do not include doodles when we refer to double coated dogs because, while they can have undercoats that shed, their fur will continue growing (not shed in a traditional sense such as a lab).  Doodles will need to be clipped, double coated dogs will not.


Grooming FAQs

How do I prepare my dog for grooming?


There are many things you can do at home to ensure your dog has the best grooming experience possible! A dog that is well socialized and used to being touched, (especially around the ears, face, feet and tail) will likely not mind the groomer doing the same. At home, you can gently massage your dog’s feet and practice touching them in the areas mentioned. This is especially important for puppies!


Another thing you can do at home is pick up that brush! All dogs benefit from being brushed, from your tiniest chihuahua to the biggest St. Bernard and everything in between! For dog’s whose fur continuously grows, brushing is a necessity (doodles, we’re looking at you).


If you find time is an issue, don’t worry about brushing them out completely every day. Instead, dedicate 5 or 10 minutes a day and focus on a different area each time. For example, front legs, back legs, feet and tail, back and underbelly, etc. Pay special attention to behind the ears and under the collar. A slicker brush is a good all purpose tool, and a fine comb can be used after to check your work.


Think of it like brushing your teeth between dentist visits. A little bit of maintenance at home will go a long way!

Mats! What are they and why are they a problem?


Mats are tangles of hair that have become so tightly wound up that they become very difficult to remove. Severe matting can pull on this skin and even cause bruising. Any mats can be uncomfortable for your pup; imagine a ponytail or glasses that are too tight on your head.

The only way to remove mats is to get under them. Often, this means shaving the fur short enough that the mats are cut cleanly off. The tighter the mats, the shorter the haircut will be. If you want a longer cut, maintain the fur as it grows back so the mats don’t affect the groom.


On some occasions, it is possible to brush the mats out. However, this possibility depends on a variety of factors: the tolerance level/grooming experience of the dog, the tightness of the matting, the type of coat the dog has, how much maintenance is done at home, how much of the dog is matted, etc. This is also a time-consuming process which can't be accurately quoted in advance.


It is always better to prevent mats than try to get rid of them after they have formed! Areas prone to matting are anywhere where there’s friction (behind the ears, under the collar, between the front legs, between the toes, and the back of the knees). Pay special attention to these areas when you brush at home. Also, getting wet can contribute to tight mats. If your dog is swimming, playing with other dogs, running through snow or puddles or getting a bath, make sure they are brushed out afterwards.

How often should my dog be groomed?


For dogs whose fur grows continuously (poodles, shih tzus, maltese, yorkies, doodles, porties, etc), and get relatively short haircuts, they should have appointments every 6-8 weeks. Longer hair cuts will mean more maintenance and less time between grooming, such as 4-6 weeks. Hair that is over an inch long may require even more frequent appointments. Bath and tidies are available between grooms if you just want to freshen up your pup. Bath and tidies do NOT replace a full groom for dogs who require it.


Double coated and short haired breeds (labs, huskies, berners, boxers, collies, etc) should be done no more than once a month. Most people book them in when they are shedding excessively or when they are dirty and stinky! Most of these dogs will go through a big shed in the spring and fall, and you may notice big clumps of hair around your house. We can help with that! Dogs who have longer coats and are prone to matting (especially in their hind end) should be done before their fur gets too tight. You should be able to find their skin fairly easily when you separate their fur; if you can’t, you have a packed coat on your hands - this will add to the cost to groom your dog! Aim for grooms 4 to 6 times a year to avoid this situation and make grooming easier on your dog.

Why does my dog need to be shaved?


A dog needs to be shaved short when they have excessive matting. In this case, always humanity over vanity! A shorter cut may also suit their lifestyle better and be easier to maintain for you. We’re always happy to chat with you to help find a haircut that suits your pup. Our priority will be to keep them comfortable and healthy.

Why shouldn't I shave my double coated dog?


Double coated dogs have fur that grows to a certain length, then falls out (sheds). This is completely normal. Shaving a double coated dog will not stop them from shedding; the hairs will just be shorter. A well maintained, healthy double coat has longer guard hairs and shorter undercoat. Together, they help insulate your dogs against heat and cold, allowing airflow to the skin. If we were to shave them, the coat would no longer work as nature intended. Often, a shaved double coat will not grow back the same consistency. Brushing your dog can help cut down on excessive shedding in your home.

How often should my dog's nails be trimmed?


Trimming once a month is a good guideline. However, dogs nails get worn down at different rates. Regular walking on concrete can help keep them at a healthy length, and minimize how often they need to be trimmed. Dogs that are less active usually have longer nails because they are not worn down as much (this is also why dewclaws often look longer than other toes; they don’t touch the ground). Just keep an eye on those nails and get them trimmed if they become hooked.

How old does my dog have to be for grooming?


Generally, grooming can be done at any age. However, what the dogs has done will depend on their tolerance level. Young puppies (3 to 5 months) will often get a “puppy tidy”. This introduces them to the grooming process but is not a full hair cut. Dogs that are very old may have decreased tolerance for grooming. In this scenario, you may need to simplify their haircut so they are easier maintained.

Do you do anal glands?


Most dogs express their anal glands naturally when they poop and don’t need any help from us! We only do anal glands when requested, and we will only do them externally. If you dog has problems with their anal glands, please consult a vet.




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Contact Info.


Address: 246 Kaska Rd
Sherwood Park, AB T8A 4G7
 
Phone: External link opens in new tab or window780-449-4779
Fax: 888-263-5432
Email: Info@happypetspa.ca

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